Schoinoussa is one of the smallest of the Small Cyclades — about nine square kilometres of low hills south of Naxos — with a hilltop Chora, a hamlet in the fields, and a port that sailors prize.
Mersini, the harbour, is a deeply indented natural bay considered one of the safest shelters for small boats in the entire Aegean. Once a pirate hideout, it is now the calmest night you will find between Naxos and Amorgos.
The island is dry — locals call it the Island of the Sun, and it gets less rain than anywhere in Greece — yet three springs give it the best water supply in the Small Cyclades, and its tavernas are famously good.
Why visit Schoinoussa?
Schoinoussa covers about nine square kilometres, walkable end to end, with three settlements: Chora (also called Panagia) on the hill, the port of Mersini below it, and tiny Mesaria among gardens and vineyards.
The island was settled around 1800 by families from Amorgos, and their descendants still farm, fish and run the tavernas. Cars are unnecessary here — every beach is within a 35-minute walk of Chora.
For a yacht crew, Schoinoussa is the quiet counterweight to Koufonisia next door: a genuinely sheltered harbour, a village that still closes for siesta, and food that outperforms the island's size.
Exploring Schoinoussa by private catamaran
Mersini is the harbour and the reason sailors come: a naturally indented, south-west-facing bay sheltered from the meltemi, with room to anchor or tie up along the inner quay. Two seafood tavernas sit at the water's edge.
The bay is shared with the ferry — the Skopelitis of Small Cyclades Lines calls daily in season, and some ferries arrive late at night — so leave the turning space clear and expect company at the quay.
The south coast holds the calmest water in meltemi weather; the north-east coast, facing the wind, is for settled days only. Tsigouri and Almyros bays offer fair-weather anchoring alternatives close to Chora.
Schoinoussa sits at the centre of the Small Cyclades: Koufonisia, Iraklia and Donousa are all under an hour away, and the island makes a natural overnight base for hopping the group.
Beaches and swimming stops
Tsigouri, a ten-minute walk south of Chora, is the default beach: long, sandy and sheltered, with the ruins of an early Christian basilica and a Hellenistic-Roman settlement just behind it.
Psili Ammos, a 30-minute walk north-east, is the island's best: fine white sand, water shifting from emerald to deep blue — but it faces the meltemi, so check the forecast before setting out.
Almyros is the shallowest and most sheltered, ideal for a lazy swim; Livadi is a long sandy beach under tamarisks, and Lioliou and Aligaria add quieter southern options.
The harbour itself doubles as a beach — lagoon-calm inside Mersini, and the easiest first swim of the day without leaving the boat.
What to see
Walk up from the port to Chora: one attractive main street, a small square, whitewashed houses in basil and bougainvillea, and views across the whole archipelago.
Continue to Mesaria, the inland hamlet surrounded by fertile gardens and small vineyards — the agricultural heart of the island and the source of its famous fava.
Behind Tsigouri beach, the remains of an early Christian basilica and a Hellenistic-Roman settlement show the island's long history.
The footpaths between Chora, Mesaria and the beaches are the island's real sight: donkeys, dry-stone walls and views to Naxos, Koufonisia and Amorgos.
What to do
Walk the beach circuit from Chora: Tsigouri, Almyros and Psili Ammos in one morning loop, with a swim at each.
Hop the Small Cyclades: Koufonisia for Pori beach, Iraklia for its cave and quiet bays, Donousa for the southern coves — all short hops from Mersini.
Time your visit to a panigyri, the island's famous village festivals, if your dates align — they are the social event of the Small Cyclades.
Do very little, well: swim, eat, walk, sleep. Schoinoussa rewards crews who stop moving.
Food & where to eat
Schoinoussa's food is the surprise of the Small Cyclades: a handful of tavernas producing cooking that visitors plan whole trips around.
Start with the fava — Visit Greece calls it perhaps the best in the world — then fresh fish, local goat, kopanisti-style cheese and honey.
At Mersini, the two seafood tavernas at the harbour are the practical stop from the boat, with tables at the waterline.
In Chora, the tavernas around the square serve the island's best cooking — walk up from the port, eat slowly, and walk down content.
Research sources
These sources were used to check the guide. Port operations, opening hours and restaurant schedules can change, so confirm details close to your visit.
This guide supports itinerary planning; it is not a navigational source. The captain remains responsible for current charts, weather, safe depths, berth instructions and local restrictions.
