Donousa is small enough to understand slowly. Stavros provides the port and supplies; a handful of paths link the other villages; clear bays make the south coast tempting when the weather agrees.
It is not an island of marina services or fixed reservations. A good stay depends on a secure boat plan, an early swim and enough time to walk to Mersini or Kalotaritissa.
The island is exposed in the open Aegean and small bays can become uncomfortable quickly. Use current charts and forecasts, and never enter the seal refuge at Fokospilia in pursuit of wildlife.
Why visit Donousa?
Donousa is the northernmost of the Small Cyclades, east of Naxos. Its scale is the main advantage: from the yacht, guests can swim, walk a marked trail and eat in a village without turning the day into a transfer schedule.
The inhabited coast runs from Stavros past Kedros and Livadi toward Mersini and Kalotaritissa. The north and east are rougher, with cliffs and caves best seen only in suitable conditions.
Two nights work well—one around Stavros and one flexible night or day stop elsewhere. Stock up before leaving the port because shops and restaurant choices are limited away from the village.
Exploring Donousa by private catamaran
Stavros is a small ferry and fishing port, not a marina. Contact the local authority before arrival, keep the ferry manoeuvring area clear and do not count on water, power or a suitable catamaran berth without direct confirmation.
Kedros and Livadi are appealing south-coast stops in the right weather. Check depths, holding, gusts and the overnight forecast independently; beach popularity and apparently clear water say nothing about secure shelter.
Kalotaritissa Bay on the northeast contains three small beaches and can offer a memorable stop when protection matches the wind. Its name and enclosed shape are not a substitute for current pilotage, especially when swell wraps around the coast.
Fokospilia is associated with the endangered Mediterranean monk seal. Do not enter, swim into or hover outside the cave hoping for a sighting. Keep speed low and give any seal a clear route away.
Beaches and swimming stops
Stavros beach lies directly beside the village and is the easiest family swim. It also lets the crew leave the yacht safely berthed rather than moving for a short beach visit.
Kedros has sand, clear water and a seasonal beach bar. Remains of a Second World War shipwreck lie underwater; snorkel only in safe conditions and do not remove or disturb material.
Livadi, below Mersini, has sand and tamarisk shade. Reach it by boat in calm weather or on the signed path from Mersini; the walk is rough enough to require proper shoes and water.
Kalotaritissa Bay holds Vlycho, Mesa Ammos and Sapounochoma. Facilities are minimal, so bring everything back out and do not assume phone signal or rapid assistance.
What to see
Above Stavros, the joined white chapels of Panagia and Agios Ioannis make an easy sunset walk. In the village, the larger Church of the Holy Cross is the focus of the September patronal festival.
At Mersini, stop at the spring beneath the plane tree and visit Agia Sofia before looking down toward Livadi. The village is tiny; quiet voices and respectful dress matter.
Kalotaritissa sits at the end of the island road below Mount Papas. Stone houses, Agios Georgios chapel and the three beaches make it a useful half-day destination even when the yacht remains at Stavros.
The Cave of the Wall and other sea caves require calm conditions and local knowledge. Treat them as geological features to view safely, not spaces a large yacht or unsupervised swimmer must enter.
What to do
Walk one of the marked routes linking Stavros, Kedros, Mesaria, Mersini and Kalotaritissa. Start early, carry more water than expected and ask locally about path condition and heat.
Combine the Mersini spring with the descent to Livadi, then return before the hottest part of the afternoon. If the climb back is too much, arrange road transport rather than relying on an uncertain beach boat.
Snorkel over sand and rock at Kedros or a quieter cove, without touching the wreck or marine life. The island’s clarity makes an unhurried surface swim more rewarding than chasing a list of dive sites.
Join a village panigyri if your dates match, particularly Holy Cross in September or Agia Sofia at Mersini. These are local religious celebrations: contribute, follow the community’s lead and arrange a safe return.
Food & where to eat
Look for patatato, goat braised with potatoes in tomato sauce, plus local pasta such as pitaridia or klosta. Fried pies may contain chard, fennel and onion or fresh cheese and mint. Capers, axialomyzithra, xerotigana and fig-based baked raki are also specific to the island.
At Stavros harbour, To Kyma has served as a kafeneio and taverna since 1948 and is known for generous home cooking. Iliovasilema, at the far end of the village beach, is a practical place to ask for slow-cooked goat and the day’s fish.
In Mersini, seasonal tavernas pair a meal with the view above Livadi. At Kalotaritissa, Mitsos is the straightforward village taverna for meat, vegetables and whatever is available that day.
Choice is limited and schedules change. Reserve or ask earlier in the day, carry cash as a backup and never shape the yacht plan around a table in a bay that has become unsafe.
Research sources
These sources were used to check the guide. Port operations, opening hours and restaurant schedules can change, so confirm details close to your visit.
This guide supports itinerary planning; it is not a navigational source. The captain remains responsible for current charts, weather, safe depths, berth instructions and local restrictions.
